Washington Pass (and over it)

Bikeventure 2016, Uncategorized

Halfway through the third day of our bikeventure, we sat in the rain under a giant Douglas Fir. We were cold, wet, at 4,000 feet or so in elevation and halfway up Washington Pass in North Cascades National Forest. We had already climbed for a day and a half. The wet road was too dangerous so we sat the storm out, unsure if the weather would pass, allowing us to make it our goal for the day.

The previous day, we climbed in the rain (and a little snow) out of the national park into the national forest allowing us to set up camp along a river bed, with water clear and blue, the color we hoped the sky might eventually turn. That morning we left camp at 9 a.m.


We waited under the Douglas Fir for an hour, after some avocado and dancing to stay warm, the rain subsided and we were able to continue uphill, the easiest way to warm back up again.

At around 4 p.m. the sky opened, the sun came out, and we reached the top of Washington Pass. We were truly excited. We jumped around, danced, yelled “YEOW!” (I bet you can picture it).


The first few days of the trip were a lesson in short term goals. It’s easy to set new year’s resolutions, or a big goal with a far off deadline, but it’s hard to touch base with those goals — figure out if you actually accomplished them. I’m really starting to believe in the power of short term goals. Each day I think I might set 20 short term goals. Reaching Washington Pass was a big one, but with such steep elevation climbs, each mile felt like a new goal. It was a new moment to get excited about, stay positive about, or focus on if your butt feels like a ball of rubber bands and your legs are burning more than you thought they could.

For me, the experience of climbing the pass put my body to the test, but not in the involuntary or stressful ways I am perhaps conditioned to from athletics. Crossing the pass felt like I was working with my body, the engine to the machine of my bike. The more I listened to how I was feeling, the more attainable the pass felt. It all required a big dose of positivity. Jackson has been extra encouraging, and the best possible teammate in positivitiy, one of my favorite parts of this trip.


Our positivity went a long way that day. When we crossed the pass, approaching a hairpin turn on about seven percent grade, it started raining (almost snowing) again. The rock faces all around us, reminded me of Katahdin’s Knifes Edge but taller, and each mountain contained the similar jagged peaks. However, there wasn’t much time to look at the mountains. We used all our energy to stabilize our bikes and maneuver the sharp turns while staying away from cars. Each time we stopped to let cars pass I felt jittery with adrenaline. After 15 miles we made it to to some level ground, the sun came out and there was a rainbow.


We made it into town and had a celebratory dinner (by a fireplace) and pedaled to some awesome bike-only camping at the Bicycle Barn in Mazama. Jim and Jan open their yard and facilities to bike touring folks. They have a solar-heated outdoor shower, composting toilet, and shelter for drying out clothes. These amenities we’re much needed after the wet weather in the North Cascades. We are so thankful for the generosity of people we’ve met along the way so far.

The Biker Barn


Last night we slept in Okanogan National Forest. Leaving our camp this morning, we were surprised to come up on a herd of 10 cows!


Parts of the National Forest are “Livestock Range Areas” Meaning (I guess)  you can just move your herd to a forest road and let them roam for a while. The cows came with us back to the main road and saw us off. A funny way to start the day indeed. This morning we eclipsed Loup Loup Pass at 4020′ elevation. The downhill was only enjoyable, with no cars and lots of zig-zaging turns.


Watching the landscape change from the giants — coniferous trees and mountains — in the North Cascades to the more dry and dusty hills in Mazama and Omak is exciting. Having an ever-changing horizon, while moving slow enough to take it all in, feels even better than I anticipated. Each bend or hill in the road provides a new experience. The feeling of being privy to it all, I can barely capture here.

Thanks everyone for your words of encouragement! We really appreciate it.

A break in the rain for some dinner.

Thats’s me down there, standing at about 6’1″ for reference.

And we’re off!

Uncategorized

About a week ago Jackson and I were watching the sunset over the Atlantic Ocean from the bow of a Grady-White, just off the shores of a coastal Maine island. The air was cool — not summer night cool — but the crisp of fall — it felt like the end of a beautiful summer. It felt like time to leave.

And so we did, a day later we travelled to my home in N.H. and visited with my family and best friends who I hadn’t seen in a year(!).  The next day we boarded a red eye to Seattle, where my cousin Laura so graciously picked us up. 

In the past week, We’ve done all that, visited with Laura and Ben, and toured Bellingham, Washington with Jackson’s dad, Tom. Only a week? Crazy. 

Although we haven’t started our journey East yet, we’ve been lucky enough to go on some awesome rides. Ben showed us around Green Lake in Seattle (and let us borrow his bikes, thanks Ben!). Laura and Ben brought us through Seattle and we got to hang out with their pooches Remi, Theo and Jet. 

Troll under the bridge with Laura

In Bellingham, we reunited with our bikes. Our time in Bellingham consisted of copious amounts of Komboucha, good food, packing, and some rides around the city, led by Tom. 

Bike loading zone at our awesome Air BnB.


BONUS VIDEO!!! Our bike grease got in our lighters and made for some crazy stuff. Check it out: ​

After picking up our bikes we went on a ride through Bellingham, the next day we biked to Lake Samish and through Padden Lake State Park where we saw old growth forests. I dubbed this ride the Breakfast Samish, because it ended in a massive breakfast. On Saturday we took a ride with some big hill climbs and many blackberries (Bike Grease and Blackberries). Although they’re invasive they make a great mid-ride snack. On Sunday Jackson went mountain biking at Galbraith Mountain while Tom and I went on a ride around Wiser Lake and through farm country. (A note on the hyperlinks: You can see all our rides in Bellingham through Tom’s Strava. We won’t be using Strava on our trip — more on that in another post — but we thought it’d be cool to check out these rides we did).

Wrong turns lead to pretty flowers.

YUM!

Tom on our farm ride.

 

Today we took a very short ride to visit Tom and Jack’s friend and test out our fully loaded bikes! Our bags have been packed, repacked and packed one more time for good measure. Weighted bikes feel like animals, like a machine I’m merely the engine for. Going up hills takes much more effort, as does starting and stopping, but on flat and downhill sections the bike’s momentum can carry you far. It’s a different type of cycling that I’ve come to enjoy. A good sign, considering tomorrow we’ll eat a big breakfast and leave Bellingham headed towards Sedro-Wooley. 

Until next time! 


———-

Lake Samish after an awesome downhill.

The Bellingham waterfront.

Sun setting in Bellingham.

Make shift bike stand…

 

Ready, steady, go!

All the goods for 2 months

 

P.S. Don’t forget you can see more picture updates on Instagram (linked on the side of this page). 

The beginning of a bikeventure

Bikeventure 2016

Moving slow is a hard task for me. Amidst, working enough, maintaining physical, emotional, and mental health and still having fun, I’m having an increasingly hard time slowing down — for introspection’s sake. Aren’t we all?

In a few weeks, when Jackson and I mount our bikes for the long haul across the Pacific Northwest, we’ll be intentionally moving only as fast as our bodies can take us, which feels just the right pace.

This journey started a year and two months ago when I returned from a post-graduation solo road trip. A trip I took for similar reasons of process and space from routine. My trip was amazing, but quick and I travelled sometimes 10 hours a day. Jackson wanted to go on a similar journey of sorts following his graduation this past May, but without rushing.

When recounting my trip I wished, “I could have taken in everything slower, like on a bike or something.”

We were sold pretty quickly on the idea of carrying all our belongings on two wheels and getting everywhere by pedal power. In January, we decided we’d do it, bought plane tickets and here we are only a few weeks away from shipping out. The trip is and will be a challenge, but mostly I think it’s an opportunity — one life doesn’t afford you all the time.

Between Jackson graduating, both of us finishing jobs, starting new ones, and moving it seems like just yesterday we started planning for this adventure. My life sort of feels like this great graphic by Wendy MacNaughton from Caroline Paul’s book “The Gusty Girl: Escapades for Your Life of Epic Adventure.”

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Wendy MacNaughton’s graphic

No time for meh. Besides working a lot and saving money for the trip, we’ve acquired many necessary items, planned travel routes and friends to visit along the way, all while trying to have fun in the mean time.


I knew Jackson was the right adventure partner for me during our first backpacking trip together across the Bigelow mountain range in Carrabassett Valley, Maine, in spring snow up to our knees. It was May and after the heavy snow that winter, trail crews hadn’t made it through yet to clean up the downed trees. Despite being rained on earlier in the day the clouds cleared and with the sun setting on our first day of hiking we reached the summit of West Peak. We howled at the glowing orb as it set behind Flagstaff Lake. In that moment, I felt pure joy. Jackson did too. Later, we’d go to sleep at 9:30 p.m. in wind and sub 30-degree weather, have our boots freeze over, and have to crack the ice off them with rocks before continuing hiking in the morning. But it was fun. I swear.

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The sunset over Flagstaff lake. 

Moments like this are why we want to go on this trip. We both like pushing ourselves, mentally and physically to be as optimistic as we possibly can while putting ourselves in challenging situations in order to experience the back roads, hidden swimming spots, sunrises on rolling hills, the sunset on West Peak or the smallest poignant personal revelations.

Turning our adventuring spirits towards biking is a new challenge for both of us. We will each carry 30-40 pounds of gear, food, and water on a steel frame between our legs. My bike is named Annie, after Annie “Londonderry” Cohen Kopchovsky, a suffragist who circled the globe in 15 months on a 42-pound bicycle in 1894. She’s a certified badass.

Cycling had not only hit its peak popularity by the 1890s but also became inextricably tied to early feminism. The bicycle gave women more freedom to go wherever they wanted, whenever they saw fit. It made women feel powerful, strong, and self-reliant, and became the favored conveyance of suffragettes…”  -Kristy Puchko (in the article linked above) 

Biking + feminism…awesome!

Jackson’s bike has yet to be named. We both will be riding Surly Long Haul Truckers. We spent a lot of time picking the most affordable and reliable gear for our trip, which I’m sure I will talk about at points in this blog, but will spare for now.

Beside biking Jackson and I both like food (a lot) and farming. I’m a poet and lover of a good story. Jackson is drummer (you can listen to his band Wyld Lyfe online) and lover of water sports. We both love to ski. We met in college at UMaine at poetry night sharing e.e. cummings poems. Most of all we love sharing stoke — thrill or excitement — for fun and we seek it out whenever we can.

Here’s a picture of us:

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On top of Chick Hill in Clifton, Maine. (Our friend Alexa takes great photos check it out). 


Now is a good time to thank all the people who have helped us prepare for this trip, our families and friends, and especially Tom. THANK YOU!

It’s also a good place to say how privileged we are to be financially, mentally, and physically stable enough to stop working for a few months to challenge ourselves and travel. We are lucky to have this opportunity because of many factors and we’re thankful, as we realize it’s not available to everyone, or for everyone.


I’m hoping to post on the blog weekly (Jackson will make occasional video updates), but if you don’t hear from us, please don’t be concerned, we probably don’t have internet. If you need/want more updates, follow us on my Instagram account (@danielle.walczak) where I’ll be posting more frequently.

We’re hoping this blog can serve, not only as travel musings, but also as a place to keep all of you who have taken interest in our journey informed on how we’re doing and let some new people in on our adventures.

Thanks for joining us on the ride,

Danielle and Jackson

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On a month

Uncategorized

Throughout my journey across the U.S. and back I passed a lot of state lines, most with huge signs that said “Welcome to [state name here]” equip with parking lots and tourists pushing the air in front of their cameras indicating for their kids to move closer together for a photo. The sight became a regular occurrence on nine-hour drives and passerby never thought much of it. I never really wanted to stop to take any pictures with the signs, although I must admit the state signs in the Rocky Mountain states are far more impressive than those in New England. However, when I stopped to take a picture with the sign at the state line of Maine and New Hampshire (no parking lot here) I was a little surprised when every other car that drove by honked at me. For me, the gesture was a big “welcome home,” one I wouldn’t have wanted any other way.

"OPEN FOR BUISNESS"

“OPEN FOR BUISNESS”

As July Fourth approaches so does summer for most people. I’m amazed a whole month passed since I got on the road but for everyone else it doesn’t seem like much changed. The weather is still cool and all is still green with spring. But I’ve touched my feet on so many different types of soil and so many places. I drove approximately 9,800 miles in 30 days.

All the places I spend significant amounts of time.

All the places I spent significant amounts of time.

My home moved between friends, family, campgrounds and the back seat of my car. My constants became the warmth of my sleeping bag, the small notebook I wrote my thoughts and directions in, and whatever voices were always inside my head. Physically, I feel much less stressed and more comfortable in my body. The biggest changes I feel are in my thinking. Although I was constantly seeing beauty around me, my trip was a mostly an introspective experience. I wasn’t a giant party on wheels and I didn’t make a ton of friends, but that wasn’t my goal. My goal was to reflect and decompress from the ups and downs of college, and be confident in myself and my direction.

On the North Rim of the Grand Canyon.

On the North Rim of the Grand Canyon.

In my discussions with people about my trip, many like to ask me superlative questions; what’s my favorite place I’ve visited, what was the best moment, the place I’d like to live the most, the hardest challenge. If I learned anything on this trip it comes down to three ideas:

1. Rely on yourself—you are enough.

2. Nothing is better or worse than anything else. It’s only a matter of perspective.

3. The main obstacle between you and doing what you know will make you happy is yourself.

Besides this, I don’t have the answers to superlative questions. Yet, I am an observer so I’ll tell what I figured out so far. I don’t want to sound preachy. These are just lessons I’ve learned along the way, each backed by a story.

A General Sense of Things: 

  • Following set journeys, trails or paths are good for paying reverence—be able to make your own adventure. Don’t feel stuck to your original plan.
  • Letting go of schedule is hard. Really hard if you’re me. Focusing on what is around at each moment, even on the road, helped me practice reducing my worry about what’s next.
  • It is easy to remove facial loneliness with a cell phone. But it’s harder to cure the deeper loneliness the phone creates.
  • Be comfortable being with yourself.
  • Being alone doesn’t have to mean being lonely.
  • Shut up. Listen.
  • Let choice liberate, not paralyze, you.
  • Sometimes you have to drive into the lightening storm at 10 p.m. in the rain up a mountain. You’ll be okay.
  • Think best case scenarios not worst.
  • Take mostly memories not things.
  • Give yourself permission to be who you are.
  • Take the road that has less cars on it.
  • When you go to places that have songs written about them, listen to those songs. (Example listen to Sufjan Stevens’ “Come On Feel The Illinois,” when driving in Illinois, esp. listen to his song “Chicago” in Chicago).
  • Keep reminders of home.
  • Let buffalo eat the grass at your campsite.
  • Listen to good podcasts.
  • Follow written directions, maps and your own intelligence to get you where you’re going.
  • Laugh at yourself.

I may not be traveling as far physically in the next few months but my adventures won’t stop here. The effect of going against the grain, being alone or exploring doesn’t require months or miles of driving, it doesn’t even require new states, just your willingness to look in a different way. The impact is obtained by looking inside, not out.

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I made it!

Despite my road trip being over, I still intend on having adventures and writing about them on this blog. Thank you for following me this far. There’s more to come!

DMW

On Gratitude

Uncategorized

On Wednesday morning I woke up to the sunrise exploding through some remnant clouds over Deadman’s Basin, a lake in the middle-of-no-where Wyoming. A side note, I used to refer to parts of Maine as the “middle-of-no-where” after driving through Wyoming, my standards changed. I woke up to a rabbit hopping around my campsite. So many moments on during my trip made me say a Lou Mrozism to myself “Holy dash.” It does feels good to be chasing sunrises, not sunsets again though. I went through my body-weight workout and made some oatmeal. The rest of the day I spent driving through prairies, ranches, wind farms and small towns whose biggest attraction was a grain elevator feet from the main road. I stopped at the infamous Wall Drug general store.

The dark cloud of consumerism over Wall Drug.

The dark cloud of consumerism over Wall Drug.

For someone who spent the last week (more or less) in nature and secluded from typical consumerism, my end-of-the-day journey was a rude awakening. I find the place hard to describe. The Wikipedia page helps a little, but it is essentially a giant tacky mecca of “Wild West” tourist consumerism. I quickly left to Sage Creek (free!) Campground in a secluded section of Badland’s National Park. Along the way I saw buffalo, prairie dogs and owls.

On Sage Creek Road (the way to the campground). The rocky piles and structures are what is most popularly "The Badlands"

On Sage Creek Road (the way to the campground). The rocky piles and structures in the distance are what is most popularly known as “The Badlands”

I got to the campsite, which sits in a small valley, as the sun was setting. I set up my tent and started preparing dinner when one of the buffalo I saw on the way to the site came sauntering down the road to the campground. If you’ve never seen a buffalo before, they are big. Bigger than I imagined they would be. They move robotically, like the people who created the dinosaurs in the Disney World Jurassic Park ride also decided to make a prairie version. But I can’t deny the animal’s strength and wisdom.

Buffalo eating some grass right next to me two-person tent.

Buffalo eating some grass right next to me two-person tent.

Anyways, after using the campground sign as a scratching post, the buffalo made his way to my campsite where he ate some grass (not my salad) and used the picnic table as another scratching post. He made himself at home and stayed until it was dark, 45 minutes or so, and moseyed on his way after a few rounds of coyote howls.

Buffalo scratching on my picnic table.

Buffalo scratching on my picnic table.


Buffalo scratching on the sign to the campground.

Buffalo scratching on the sign to the campground.

As I was watching the animal I first thought about what it must have been like when tens of thousands buffalo roamed the plains and reigned over the grasslands. Much of my time on my trip has been spent wondering what this place we call the United States was like when it was America and only Native people lived among these vast places, not over them. I know I’ve said it before but I’ve been practicing my own smallness. The second thought process I had was just how thankful I am. I’m grateful that I worked hard, so I could make this trip happen financially, but also that I allowed myself to take it—to turn off everyday life for a month. I’m grateful everyday, but especially this day I felt so lucky to be a part of all of this, a small spec moving, virtually silently, through a boundless expanses that we are lucky are still protected.

Today marks the end of the longest truly solo part of my trip. Although before now I’ve been mostly alone, I stayed with friends and family along my journey, which was good company and part of the reason for this trip to begin with. However, since Sunday morning I’ve been alone alone, staying in my tent and stumbling on words when I have to talk to someone for the first time in 10 days. I bet to half of you this sounds awful. For me forgetting I have speech, at least momentarily, is gratifying, making me a better observer.

I’ve always been a “listener” but when you effectively turn off your voice for five days your listening skills only manifest in themselves, the powers of observation become your mode of communication. You hear the way people treat each other, the beliefs people have about the earth and religion, the way land can speak to you. You hear the grass break under the jaw of a buffalo and they rain is a relaxing song to fall asleep to.

On the way to my campsite at Deadman's Basin.

On the way to my campsite at Deadman’s Basin.

I appreciate all the support and interest so many of you took in this trip. In less than a week I’ll be back home. I can’t believe a whole month has passed but I know this won’t be the last time I’m out on the road.

Until my next post here are some more pictures:

On turning off the GPS

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We all know the Robert Frost poem-turned-mantra, “The Road Not Taken,” where Frost concludes: “Two roads diverged in a yellow wood, and I— I took the one less travelled by, and that has made all the difference.” We love to ascribe to the deeper meaning of the poem and put it as a senior yearbook quote to show that we are different. Pause, remove the metaphor. How often do we actually take the physical road less travelled?

Does it make a difference? I think so.

Turning off my GPS has been a gradual lesson in driving confidence. Believe it or not the U.S. and state governments do a pretty good job labeling roads if you pay attention. Starting off on my journey and navigating through cities pushed me towards using my GPS as a guide to my next stop, but somewhere in the south western U.S. near the Grand Canyon I was heading towards a campsite that didn’t have an address. I stopped paying attention to the GPS and needed to start using maps. Yes, paper ones.

For a while I used my own written directions and then had the GPS on as back up. But I was frustrated with the constant “ETA” feature which made me feel rushed to get to certain locations when my time of arrival was pushed back minute by minute. Following my own schedule on a month-long trip took some time to adjust to.

Turning off my GPS was the best decision I could have made getting towards moving the way I wanted to.

For the past week or so I followed California Rte. 1 up the coast and the Pacific Highway (Rte. 101) once I was out of California. If you’re unfamiliar, the route follows up the entire west coast. Picture beaches and crystal blue ocean to the west, the winding road in front of you, and hills or mountains directly to the east—nice to look at.

Example.

Example.

My final push to cut the GPS came when I jumped off Rte. 101 in northern California to drive down “Avenue of Giants.” The name sounded interesting and by powers of deduction I was hoping it might lead me to some big Redwoods, which it did. I followed through unfazed by my travel time. I listened to “Transatlanticism” by Death Cab for Cutie and it the ancient trees relaxed me. The sun whispering between car-sized trunks and the tiny sliver of sky above the road created an alternate reality if only for a few hours.

I made it so far north in Washington I’m almost in Canada. Every time I get a little worried I might be off track or lost, I get small reminders I’m okay. In the Redwoods I saw a Sugarloaf sticker and met a park ranger from Brunswick, Maine. If I had followed my GPS I would have missed the Redwoods and these reminders of home.

It's hard to capture.

It’s hard to capture.

I’ve learned a lot from turning off my GPS such as:

-I’m more confident using maps and my own general sense of direction.

-I’m more aware of my surroundings.

-I’m able to take advantage of many sights or activities I wouldn’t have seen on the major freeway.

-I’ve been able to reduce my dependance on time-structured and centric days.

-I’ve also learned to be more playful and take chances. Sing loudly, moo at cows when I drive by them, and laugh at myself.

In the past week I’ve been in Santa Barbara, San Fransisco, the Oregon coast, Forks, Washington, Olympic National Forest, everywhere in between and I’m currently in Bellingham, Washington.

Cue Laura Marling singing, “I’m going back east where I belong.”

I’m making some stops along the way but essentially I’m headed home at this point. I can’t believe three weeks have passed since I left Maine.

A quick shout out to my Dad on Father’s Day. Love you!

Dad and I in Joshua Tree on New Year's Day 2015.

Dad and I in Joshua Tree on New Year’s Day 2015.

Now, some pictures of the past week: